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Topic: How to: Use Spar Urethane (Read 2685 times) |
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Sturdly
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How to: Use Spar Urethane
« on: Aug 14th, 2004, 10:07am » |
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So here's my experience with Spar urethane on my masonite/hardboard covered ramp. Overall, this stuff is a godsend. It won't turn masonite into Skatelite, but it will make for a durable non-slick skating surface that lasts for years and dries fast and resists both rain and UV damage. Note that even with the Spar coating, masonite will still buckle when exposed to moisture for extended periods and will require some maintenance. My experience with Spar is that masonite holds its composition much better than without treatment. Without it, wet masonite quickly gets soft and separates into tiny wood particles. With Spar, masonite can stay hard and fast for years. It's pretty clear that two or more coats of Spar can save $$ and time on long-term maintenance.
Since my initial Spar post, I've changed my tone. Brushes are out and rollers are in for application. I'm not the first to try roller application, but now that I've tried it man is it fast and easy. I'll leave some of my old text in strikethrough for reference, in case someone decides to go with brush application (but why would they?).
Spar must be applied with a brush and takes time to paint on and dry. I think I logged about 20 minutes per sheet of masonite when applying it to the ramp. With 22 sheets on my ramp, I was looking at a multiple days just to apply a single coat.
After slapping a new coat of masonite, this year it took me 1 hour to coat the entire 22-sheet ramp using a roller. With two coats, that works out to around 2-3 hours total. The first coat needs to be fully dry before a second coat is applied. if you're going the Spar route feel free to have a few hard sessions before applying the urethane. So long as you don't damage the masonite and clean it well, everything will turn out fine. But be sure to seal the masonite before it gets "toothy" from the sun, with raised grain. If the wood's toothy you'll end up with a few thousand tiny urethane coated spikes sticking up that will give you a rash on a good bail.
When applied with a roller you'll need a good deal more Spar - I don't know where it all goes, but it probably soaks right into the ramp. The Spar goes on nice and thick so you might want to consider just two coats when using a roller. With a brush, a one-galllon can puts a single coat on a 16-foot wide mini ramp. With a roller, I was up to three cans for my 16-foot wide vert ramp for two thick coats.
Now that you've decided to put it on, here's how to do it.
1. Buy the satin finish (NOT GLOSS OR SEMI-GLOSS), which lends just the right amount of slide without making the ramp over slippery.
2. Buy a mess of wide, semi-cheap brushes. This process will destroy your brushes, so don't use dad's nice stash. Clean brushes often during application with mineral spirits when they start to get tacky, and when they're beyond repair replace them. Don't apply Spar with a tacky brush - it's asking for trouble.
Buy the two pack of 9-inch rollers with 1/4" or 3/8" nap - all of about $5. You'll use one for each coat.
3. Wait for a dry day. Plan on working when the ramp is dry (i.e., no dew) and when the temperature is within the recommended range on the can - above about 55 degrees. I did some work after dark on a moist day and had some trouble with drying, so be warned.
4. Get all the dust and dirt off you ramp.
5. Wearing old shoes and ratty clothes, apply a light coat of Spar with the roller working in 4' square sections. Stir-stir-stir that can, and stir between filling up the tray each time. Spar's UV protectant quickly settles to the bottom of the can and needs to be kept in suspension - or else you'll get funky white crap on your ramp when you get to the bottom of the can.
If only putting on two coats I'd put it on a little heavier. Brush it on nice and slow, working to minimize the bubbles. You may need to screw a 2x4 into the ramp to stand on the trannys and reach the taller areas.
For materials, get an 8-foot roller extension to reach the upper trannies - no scafolding necessary. Once Spar's on and drying, don't go back and play with it twenty minutes later.
With the roller you'll get a few small bubbles, but I just went with it and it turned out fantastic. Disclaimer: if you're paranoid about bubbles, test a corner of the ramp before tearing into the whole thing. Then you only have yourself to blame. Note: the new Spar doesn't bubble when applied with a roller.
6. Wait until the stuff is dry, at least six hours before putting on the next coat (4 hours for the new formula). The can says to sand for better adhesion. I'm not that anal and it turns out that it didn't matter.
7. Apply one or two more coats, wait a day for the final coat to dry before riding.
Here's my flat bottom after 2.5 years, Spar treated. Nice and level, though I still need to screw down bubbles that pop up with the rains. The masonite is nice and tight.
If, after treatment with Spar, your surface gets too slippery you can try what I did. Take some 150 grit sandpaper (preferably with a palm or belt sander; use a dust mask) to the surface and ruff it up a bit. Mop it with water to remove the dust, and your board should stick like flys on flypaper.
Good luck. Build strong, skate long.
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| « Last Edit: Sep 27th, 2006, 10:04am by Sturdly » |
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oldsk8tr
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #2 on: Aug 14th, 2004, 10:33am » |
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Sturdly
I can't thank you enough for taking the time to share. This is hands down one of the best posts I've read in quite some time.
Do you tarp you ramp at all?
I am starting the SPAR as soon as the wife gets back with the Van (TODAY!) and I can get over to Home Depot to pick up some masonite.
Very nice ramp by the way too! How tall?
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RichmondVA
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #3 on: Aug 14th, 2004, 10:48am » |
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 Great tutorial ! If i had seen this earlier i would have porb gone wiht masonite over metal. How did u find out about spar eurothane?? It seems like a great product!
ausome ramp
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Sturdly
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #5 on: Aug 14th, 2004, 1:42pm » |
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Thanks guys,
I'm glad to help out. I'm not a big fan of skating on plywood, but a little Spar might help keep the elements at bay. It's pretty much marine grade sealant, so anything you put it on is going to have twice the life. I've had too many splinters in my day to ride plywood anymore.
I started tarping my ramp early on and just gave in at some point when the water started seeping through. No cover these days though, it's just out in the elements.
I'm not sure where I heard of it initially, but I read the post (now on Rampage, per this thread) before starting. Overall that post's pretty right on, but angle iron for ramp coping is where I draw the line. They don't even mention galvanized steel pipe, which you'll find on most ramps.
11-feet tall.
Cheers.
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| « Last Edit: Aug 14th, 2004, 1:51pm by Sturdly » |
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oldsk8tr
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #6 on: Aug 14th, 2004, 2:00pm » |
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Sweet! 11'. Does your wife yell at you as well? I will take a dive doing something and I gage the level of the fall by the amount of time it takes my wife to look out the window.
How is your little one doing? I hope all is well on the home front!
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Sturdly
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #7 on: Aug 14th, 2004, 2:08pm » |
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Rowan rips.
Off to skate...
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oldsk8tr
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #8 on: Aug 14th, 2004, 8:03pm » |
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A cutie to be sure! Kids are great man!
I meant to ask you where are you from? I was wondering what kind of weather your ramp has endured? Winters? In Cleveland that's always the test of anything.
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oldsk8tr
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #9 on: Aug 14th, 2004, 8:27pm » |
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on Aug 14th, 2004, 10:18am, hankhebert wrote: Nice ramp Do you think spar urethane would work well on sanded plywood?
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Hank,
Just an FYI, Masonite/Hardboard is only 6.95/sheet at home depot. That's not too bad. You might consider springing for some for your ramp if possible.
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"Age ... is a matter of feeling, not of years."
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Sturdly
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #10 on: Aug 15th, 2004, 9:22am » |
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Yeah, right there. Masonite is a brand name - hardboard is the generic name. There are a bunch of different manufacturers that make the stuff. I recommend the 1/4 inch over the 1/8 inch hardboard. It holds together better over time.
I'm in central California with pretty dry summers and winters and no snow. November through April allows intermittent skating between storms. The flatbottom bubbles swell pretty big during the longer storm sessions, but go away just as fast afterward as the masonite shrinks and tightens back up.
I saw that tarp setup. Very nice. I have family by Cleveland (Mentor by the Lake and Marshallville) and recall that the summers are swampy and hot. I like the fireflys though - we don't get those out here.
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| « Last Edit: Aug 15th, 2004, 9:23am by Sturdly » |
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DriftwoodSk8brds
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #11 on: Aug 15th, 2004, 10:08am » |
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An awesome substitute for hardboard or masonite...is this stuff called tileboard....all it is is hardboard but it has a white "shell" on the top and sides of the sheet making it waterproof. goes for about $11 a sheet here
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Sturdly
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #12 on: Aug 16th, 2004, 8:25am » |
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Thanks,
Yeah, I've heard of the tileboard method but never knew anyone that actually tried it.
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fess
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #13 on: Aug 28th, 2004, 1:09am » |
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Very nice article Sturdly. Thanks.
Just by contrast I should point out that I had an untreated masonite ramp in california. It lasted almost 1 1/2 years. So hardboard / masonite works well in the desert. ( as I've seen oldsk8 say. )
still the treament on yours seems to have well outlasted even a year and a half.
I wonder how well the treatment would hold up in a humid climate.
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| « Last Edit: Oct 11th, 2004, 9:29am by fess » |
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Destroyer
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Re: Spar Urethane
« Reply #14 on: Oct 10th, 2004, 4:46pm » |
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is the reason you use spar urethane mainly because its outside and to protect it from weather ... the thing i want to prevent is the dust that masonite will cause i dont have spar but i have polycrilic and polyurethane which are both made by minwax do you think these will work , this is also an indoor ramp and yes im sorry im repetative but i reallty cant make up my mind between plywood or masonite masonite is about 6 dollars cheaper then the plywood i need but since i dont have spar and if i need to give it a coat of spar its going to cost 50 dollars for the gallon of it so therefore it woul dbe cheaper to go with plywood once afgain the names are polyurethane and and polycrilic i hope one of them does the job
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| « Last Edit: Oct 10th, 2004, 4:50pm by Destroyer » |
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